Cape Breton Island Has the Most Beautiful and Challenging Motorcycle Roads in the World Including the Famous Cabot Trail

Cape Breton Island is rated the #1 Island to visit in continental North America by Travel & Leisure Magazine and National Geographic says ‘The Cabot trail  is one of the most spectacular scenic drives in the world”.

 The Cabot Trail, Cape Breton and Nova Scotia are definitely a “must do” ride and visit, among the most beautiful places in the world.

“I have traveled around the globe. I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes, the Alps and the Highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty, Cape Breton out rival them all.”

– Alexander Graham Bell

 We have done the California’s Pacific Coast Highway, Montana’s Road to the Sun, The Beartooth Pass, Wyoming’s Yellowstone Park, Alberta’s Banff, Jasper and Kananaskis country, but Nova Scotia’s Cabot Trail is on top of our best ride list.

There are so many beaches, parks, restaurants and shops it’s hard for someone to know where to stop. We are here to help you. If we haven’t been there or tried it, our friends and relatives have. There is so much to do on Cape Breton and always so little time. So let us try and help you.

The Cabot Trail

 

The Cabot Trail was named after Italian explorer John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto) a Venetian navigator and explorer who in 1497 landed on Cape Breton.

The Cabot Trail is a highway and scenic roadway located in northern Victoria County and Inverness County on Cape Breton Island. The route measures 298 km (185 mi) in length and completes a loop around the northern tip of the island, passing along and through the scenic Cape Breton Highlands.

The northern section of the Cabot Trail passes through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The western and eastern sections follow the rugged coastline, providing spectacular views of the ocean. The southwestern section passes through the Margaree River valley before passing along Bras d’Or Lake

The Cabot Trail loops from Exit 7 on Nova Scotia Highway 105 at Buckwheat Corner to Exit 11 on Highway 105 at South Haven. The entire route is open year-round.  This magnificent highway is carved into the sides of mountains with lookouts that offer memorable vistas of Cape Breton’s rugged coastline and is considered one of the world’s most scenic destinations.

The Cabot Trail, winds through beautiful landscapes, along the Margaree River, a Canadian Heritage Salmon River, and through spectacular rugged highlands of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park of Canada.

Once you are on Cape Breton Island you’ll see that this winding scenic trail has lots of things to do and see. Musical Events, Ceilidh’s and Festivals happen around the Cabot Trail regularly.

Enjoy numerous places around the trail to stay and fabulous seafood at many of the great restaurants which we will reveal.

Starting Your Ride

You can start the Cabot Trail at St Ann’s going counterclockwise, placing you on the outside lane (the cliff side) or going clockwise placing you on the inside lane by starting at Nyanza. The trail is approximately 300 km’s (185 miles) long and will take at least five hours to travel without stops.

The section of highway that connects the two is Trans Canada Highway #105 it’s not really part of the Cabot Trail but it completes the loop.

There are four main routes to the Cabot Trail once you cross the Causeway onto Cape Breton.

The first is to follow the rotary just after the Causeway, towards “Inverness/Cheticamp” on Route 19 (Ceilidh Trail). Travel along the coast past Mabou and Inverness, and at Dunvegan turn left on Route 219, follow the coast. Just past Margaree Harbour, you will meet the Cabot Trail at a T-junction. Turn left onto the bridge, along the coast toward Cheticamp. Turn right, to travel along the Margaree River toward Baddeck (Route 19 ends at Margaree Forks). Turn left to travel along  the Margaree River to Margaree Harbour, or turn right onto the Cabot Trail, to Margaree Valley  and  Baddeck.)

The second is to take the Trans Canada Highway (#105) (approximately 77 km from the Canso Causeway) and turn left onto the Cabot Trail at the Red Barn Restaurant and Gift Shop (at Nyanza) exit 7.

• This picturesque drive will bring you by Lake O’Law and through the Margarees.

 The third is to take the Trans Canada Highway (#105) to St. Ann’s exit 11 and turn left onto the Cabot Trail (approximately 105    km from the Canso Causeway or 59 km from Sydney). 

• This choice will take you counter-clockwise around the Cabot Trail. It will eventually result in a T junction. Turn left to travel towards Ingonish.

 The fourth is to take the Trans Canada Highway (#105) to the Englishtown Ferry turnoff (Route 312) exit 12 (approximately  110 km from the Canso Causeway).

• Cross St. Ann’s Bay on the Englishtown Ferry, this will eventually bring you to Ingonish and around the Cabot Trail, also in a counter-clockwise direction

Tip

• This cuts off approximately 15 to 20 minutes of driving around St Ann’s Bay but there is a ferry fee and possibly a wait at the ferry.

• Note that Gas Stations and Washrooms are located mainly in the larger towns along the trail and are a good distance apart so plan accordingly. Especially when talking washroom/restrooms.

 

Counterclockwise Route

St Ann’s to Indian Brook

The road around St Ann’s from the highway to just past the Galiec College is very good with recently paved sections. After the college it is rough, it has potholes, cracks and broken sections after the college all the way to Skir Dhu.

It is a very scenic drive with lots of twists and turns despite the roughness.If you are going this way make sure to visit the Galiec College.

 When you reach the “T “ Intersection turn left for Ingonish

Englishtown to Indian Brook

Taking the ferry route has a couple of advantages over going via St Ann’s.

This route is approximately 12 km and 14 minutes shorter. The road needs paving from after the Galiec College to the “T” intersection at the trail.

Tips

• On Friday evenings going north and Sunday evenings or holiday Mondays going south the ferry at Englishtown gets backed up and it can be quite a wait, so we go around the St Ann’s way.

• If you need a break and are interested in leather stop by Leather Works in Indian Brook they have unique leather products.

Indian Brook to Wreck Cove

If we find ourselves behind a line of traffic we use the straight stretches on this part of the trail to pass as many as possible. After this section there are few legal passing sections

They are presently repaving from Skir Dhu to Wreck Cove so expect some delays. The remainder of the road is relatively good.

Wreck Cove to Cape Smokey

Wreck Cove to Cape Smokey is recently paved and to Ingonish the road is good. After Ingonish it’s the park so the road is excellent.

CapeSmokey to Ingonish Ferry

The best riding is about to begin, quick tight turns up a steep 370m (1200 ft) climb to the top of Cape Smokey and about the same all the way down the other side to Ingonish ferry. Ah! Biker’s heaven, you’ll see.

Tip

• At the bottom of Smokey is a tight right hand hair pin and a small pull off. It’s an ideal place to wait for the slow traffic to clear before starting up Smokey.
• Stop at the top of Cape Smokey for a photo at the lookout of Cape Smokey Provincial Park.

At the bottom of Cape Smokey on the north side is the communities of Ingonish

The area known as Ingonish is actually a cluster of five small communities on the Cabot Trail, nestled between the National Park, Highlands and Atlantic Ocean. It consists of Ingonish Ferry in the South followed by Ingonish Harbour, Ingonish Beach, Ingonish Centre, and ends with Ingonish in the North. From start to finish the area covers only 16 kilometers, so no matter where you stay in Ingonish, you are only minutes away from all recreation and services

Much of the Ingonish area borders the 950 square km Cape Breton Highlands National Park which contains campgrounds, look-offs, picnic sites, beaches and hiking trails.

The area offers both saltwater and freshwater fishing with ocean charters available. The multitude of lakes, ponds and rivers provide excellent salmon and trout fishing from June 1st through early October.

Ingonish Ferry to Ingonish Beach

After many more excellent turns and a tour around south Ingonish harbour we’ll be in Ingonish Beach.

Tip

• Don’t forget your raingear the weather changes from village to village

Ingonish Beach to Ingonish Center

The entrance to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the home of the Highlands Links one of Canada’s premier golf courses at the Keltic Lodge are found in this section of the trail.

You will come upon an information center in the middle of the road with washrooms just before the Parks ticket booth.  There is plenty of parking on the right.

Tip

• The Keltic Lodge is worth a look, it’s a very beautiful spot with a great view. Food is pricey and really nothing special.

• You will buy your park pass here if you plan on stopping in the park and by the way you will want to.

• The east side of the park runs from Ingonish to the base of south mountain just before South Harbour and then starts again at Big Intervale and runs to just outside of Cheticamp.

• If you are hungry my wife likes the Main Street Restaurant & Bakery. They have great pasta dishes and deserts. The service lately has been slow and despite having good food I prefer the Seagull in Ingonish.

Ingonish to Neil’s Harbour

Leaving Ingonish and after entering the park you will come upon Black Brook beach, a very popular beach.Next will be Neil’s Harbour, a small fishing village as pretty as Peggy’s cove.A very nice beach can be found near the trail just on the right side of the road going into Neil’s Harbour.

On the lefthand side is a bright blue building that houses a nice little take out called the Seabreeze. Great haddock & chips for the fish lovers and homemade burgers and fries for the landlovers.

If you are in the need for groceries there is a COOP grocery store and across the street, up the hill is a Pharmacy. (the next pharmacy is in Cheticamp)

Neil’s Harbour to South Harbour

Mainly trees and straight stretches with a couple of turns before going down South Mountain into South Harbour. Watch your speed on this stretch, it’s a regular patrol for the RCMP. Many a local have been nabbed along here. It’s natural to gain speed on the long way down the mountain.

Tip

• If you want to see the ocean go around the White Point route. The road sucks but the scenery is worth it.

 

Neil’s Harbour via White Point & Smelt Brook to South Harbour

If you are interested in seeing the outpost villages you should go through Neil’s Harbour and New Haven to go the rough back route to White Point, Smelt Brook and to the “T” intersection at the Cabot Trail.

Take a right at the White Point sign and enjoy the ride down to the ocean. There is a few turns and dips on the way down and a very scenic harbour when you get there.Below is a view looking towards Smelt Brook, South Harbour and DingwallThe road this way has numerous dips and broken sections and should be done at a leisurely pace. But it is well worth the effort.

Tips

• Make sure to go down into White Point you’ll be glad you did. I ride right down onto the pier and stop for photos and there is plenty of room to turn around. Maybe you’ll find a local fisherman to talk to while you are there.

• When you drive up the hill from White Point there’s a pull off area just past the stop sign, it’s a great place for a picture.

• Upon reaching the “T” intersection you’ll make a right turn and cross a little bridge at Effie’s Brook you are now entering South Harbour on the right hand side there’s a craft shop called Country Crafts stop and get a I rode the Cabot Trail biker pin and say hello to the owner Paulette, it’s a great little shop.

Tip

• Great handmade knitted sweaters and quilts.

South Harbour to Cape North

Now if you are not in a hurry visit Dingwall the road will be on the right after crossing the two small bridges with a tight right-hand turn just after climbing the small hill out of South Harbour.

Dingwall has a small fishing boat harbour and a great public beach. Follow the road all the way to the end if you want to see the sea. You’ll end at the Markland Resort and can turn around there. There is a gravel pull off section that you can use to visit the beach and take some photos.

Tip  

• Stop at the Celtic Touch great pie, Scottish oatcakes and squares.

 

Cape North

Next stop on the Cabot trail is Cape North village the most northerly part of the trail. If you are into local history the Highland Museum is at the top of the hill behind Morrison’s Restaurant (closed). The museum was started by Audie and Ruth Morrison in their store/restaurant decades ago and is worth the time to see.

Visit North Highlands Community Museum and Culture Centre

 http://www.northhighlandsmuseum.ca/

http://northerncapebreton.com/

Now you get to make the decision here if you want to see the site where Cabot landed. The presumed site of John Cabot’s landing in 1497 is often missed. It is not on the Cabot Trail but only a short drive off the trail on the road to Bay St Lawrence and Meat Cove. Cabot Landing Provincial Park has the most beautiful beach that is never crowded with a small picnic park.

Traveling along Aspy Bay you will travel through the village of Sugar Loaf and the presumed site of John Cabot’s landing in 1497. The Cabot Landing Provincial Park is on your right hand side and is well marked. It has a nice beach and picnic area with pit toilets. A great place for a photo op at the monument for John Cabot.

Cape North to Bay St Lawrence and Meat Cove

Take a side trip to Sugar Loaf, Bay St Lawrence and Meat Cove for beautiful scenery there is only one main road so you can’t get lost and you will be glad you went.

Take the road to the right at the top of the hill in Cape North and you are on your way to the tip of Cape Breton

Down the hill from Cape North and you will come to a bridge that crosses the Aspy River.

Just after you drive through Sugar Loaf you will see a sign for Cabot’s Landing Park turn right and go check out the beach. This is a rarely busy park and beach that has picnic tables for a great lunch.

After the park you will have a few turns and hills before reaching Bay St Lawrence

You will see the sign for Meat Cove and you will need to turn left. The road is only paved for 2/3 of the way and then gravel but we have gone up on the motorcycle all with tons of other bikers. It’s worth the drive.

Tip

• Locals swim in the Aspy River just below the bridge. Take the first left after crossing the bridge and take the first left again and drive up almost under the bridge. Swim and enjoy.

• If you do go down to the wharf and are in for some great Fish & Chips or homemade hamburgers stop at the HUT. It’s a little take out with outdoor tables and super friendly folks.

Bay St Lawrence to Meat Cove

After visiting the harbour in the Bay and if you want to travel the road to Meat Cove you’ll take a right at the Coop grocery store and follow it through Capstick to the end of the road at Meat Cove. It’s about 7kms (5ms) of gravel. At Times the road is really bad after a rain.When you get there you’ll know why even the local people go there for a drive. There is not much there at the end of the road, a small campground, takeout and a rental wilderness cabin but a view you won’t soon forget.

After a rain the road gets filled with pot holes and water making a huge mess. I would suggest you ask someone in the village of Bay St Lawrence how the road is. I’m sure the local RCMP could help.

Cape North to Big Intervale

If you don’t want to stop in Cape North then keep left at the “Y” and you will be heading towards Big Intervale and the next entrance to the park.

It’s a good distance through the woods as you ride up the beautiful Sunrise Valley before you reach the base of the mountain just before the park.On the left hand side after a couple of long straight sections is a shop called Cranberry Patch, stop by and say Hello to Dodie or Dave. It’s a shop full of interesting Local Artisans products. I personally like the fudge.

As you continue towards Pleasant Bay and Cheticamp you will come upon Big Intervale. If you bought a park pass you can visit Beulach Ban Falls and have a picnic or use the toilet at the campground (there is not many around). The road to the falls is gravel, the shoulders are soft and it’s a good distance into them, but it’s worth it.

Buelach Ban Falls Story

Late in June one summer my wife and I decided that it would be nice to see the falls. Well the park hadn’t graded the road yet and there were lots of potholes so I was darting left and right around them and then I got the brilliant idea to try the left shoulder since it looked smooth.

Oh it was smooth all right and covered with leaves and was very soft mud. The front wheel dug in I gave it a twist of throttle and we lurched across the road heading to go over the bank. That’s when I decided I had had enough and rolled off the throttle and on both brakes the bike ended up on its tip over bars and my wife in a puddle laughing her fool head off at me.

Man, I can’t believe I’m telling you how stupid I was. Notice I said was. You know what they say “there is them that have and there is them that will”.

Big Intervale to Pleasant Bay

After Big Intervale you’ll start your climb up the North Mountain 445 m (1460 ft). Watch for moose early morning and near dusk. We have seen plenty on the North, Mackenzie and French Mountains. My brother-in-law counted 14 one morning on the way to Cheticamp for golf.

There are so many turns both up and down and plenty of lookouts for photo ops. It’s great!

North Mountain

You will experience an awesome climb up from the base to the top of the North mountain that has numerous look-offs for great photo ops. Numerous tight turns are yours to enjoy

North Mountain Meeting the Moose Story

Travelling after dark one evening (not recommended) from Pleasant Bay to Cape North we came around a turn on the North Mountain doing about 25 and just as the bike started to stand up I got a glimpse of a wall of brown.

I grabbed a handful of front brake and because we were still not vertical the front wheel started to slide so off the front brake and on the rear more and I got us vertical and back on the front full and we came to a stop.

There right off the nose of our bike was a cow moose and two calves with butts facing us and they were all big.

Well after catching my breath and yelling at mom to get her kids off the road, we tried to get away from them. Momma moose went left with one calf and the other decided he wanted to go to our right side that left him no where to go but down the road due to the shear cliff on the outside.

Poor Jr. went clippity clomp just ahead of us for a hundred feet so before I decided that this wasn’t getting either one of us anywhere. We were now far enough from Mom that I could stop and see if he would head for the ditch. Sure enough, after he gained a few more feet in front of us he crossed and headed back to his mom.

You’ll see what I mean when I say that he had no where to go, as the road up the mountain starts narrowing it’s straight up on the inside and straight down on the outside. No wonder they were walking down the road.

After a quick decent with awesome turns you will quickly pass through the small village of Pleasant Bay.

Tip

• If you want to go on a whale tour this is the place, just follow the signs down to the wharf and pick out one of the many operators.

Pleasant Bay to Cheticamp

As you leave Pleasant Bay you will ascend up the steepest mountain climb, the Mackenzie, sea level to 372 m (1220 ft) in a fairly short distance. Lots of turns and switchbacks on this one. It’s the best.

At the top is a lake that we once saw two moose swimming across the lake, on the way down the other side on one of the tightest parts we saw a Cow and calf moose lying in the ditch so you never know where they are going to be.

Next is the French Mountain 455 m (1493 ft) high during your descent you’ll come upon a great lookout just before Cap Rouge, a 421 m (1381 ft) headland You’ll know it when you get there it has an awesome view and is one of the most photographed on all the trail.

You will soon leave the park upon entering Petit Etang just before Cheticamp.

Now read this carefully, on the right side you will come upon the Aucoin’s Bakery and if you love fresh baked bread, rolls, cookies and pies then you must stop here. Blue and white building just off on a side road that you can see from the trail, don’t miss it.

Next is Cheticamp a great Acadian town with friendly courteous people that make great food. We go here often for lunch and dinner.

Tips

• Our favorite spot is the All Aboard Restaurant great deals on Lobster, Crab, Fish & Chips, Ribs and homemade deserts. The best coconut cream pie anywhere. To find them you will travel all the way through town past the Coop Grocery Store and they are on the right hand side on the turn overlooking the harbour.

• Our second choice is The Homestead Restaurant great Butterscotch Pie and good food as well. This little town has almost everything you need and the nicest people to help you so if you don’t see want you need just ask. The Homestead is on the right-hand side just as you enter the main part of town. There’s a great view from the closed in patio.

• You Must Stop at Aucoin’s Bakery if you love fresh baked bread, rolls. Small picnic table outside to enjoy your rolls.

Cheticamp to Margaree Forks

After Cheticamp there are numerous small Acadian villages and your next reasonably sized place is Margaree. At Margaree Forks there is an information building on the left hand side and if you are interested in fly fishing or anything else around the Margarees (six of them in all) these folks know everything about the area.

Margaree Forks to Nyanza

Leaving Margaree you will parallel the Law O’Lake Brook with lots of gentle turns all the way till you reach Lakes O’ Law there you will find a great spot to stretch your legs and even enjoy the nice picnic area if you’re so inclined.

You’ll ride awhile driving inland through the woods with some openings at farms and you’ll reach Middle River. Middle river has a small bike shop Gasit Enterprises Ltd, other than Sydney this is one of a few bike shops around the Island.

Continuing on south you will soon travel up Hunters Mountain and back down to the end of the trail at the Red Barn in Nyanza, You can make a left turn and head towards Sydney or right back towards the causeway to pick up the fleur- de-lis trail at port Hastings to travel around the outside of the island to Louisburg..

 Clockwise Route (inside lane)

 Nyanza to Middle River 

We start the trail at the Red Barn Restaurant and Gift Shop at Nyanza.

• You will come to a left-hand sweeper then start a gentle climb up Hunters Mountain then through the rolling hills and valleys of the Middle River area.
• Middle River has a small motorcycle shop Gasit Enterprises Ltd if you’re in need.

 

Middle River to Margaree

You will parallel the Middle river and the Law O’Lake Brook through farming country with plenty of turns and rolling hills.

At Lakes O’ Law there’s you will find a great spot to stretch your legs and even enjoy the nice picnic area if you’re so inclined.

The Cabot Trail continues through the rolling green farmland of the south side of the river valley to Margaree Forks and on to Margaree Harbour.

At Margaree Forks you’ll find a small Visitors Information building on the right side of the road and since there are lots to do in the Margarees (six of them in all) stop by and see what interests you.

Margaree to Cheticamp

You will follow the Margaree River past Margaree Harbour and overlook the ocean. Often it cools off quite a bit and as you approach Grand Etang it gets windy.

Here comes the rugged coastline what a great ride. Gentle turns, scenic views and very little traffic can it get any better? Yes the mountains are coming.

As you approach Cheticamp the traffic will get a little busier as folks head in and out of town. Now make sure to visit this great community. We always plan a stop here. Cheticamp is a wonderful Acadian town with friendly courteous people. There are so any great places to eat and shops to visit we just can’t ride through.

 Cheticamp to Pleasant Bay After leaving Cheticamp and Petit Etang you will Come upon the information Center for the Cape Breton Highlands National Park on your right and beyond that the Park Booth.You should prepare yourself to stop many times from here to Big Intervale on the other side of the mountains. Really, do yourself a favor and take as many photos as you can. As you ride upon Cap Rouge you’ll see what I mean.

There are plenty of pull offs, lookouts, look offs whatever you want to call them so take advantage of them, and oh yeah be careful on the ones that are located on the turns, local drivers do not slow down too much for the turns and you will have to cross in front of them to reach the outside edge.

You will climb the headland of Cap Rouge, at a height 421 m (1381 ft).

During your ascent you’ll come upon a great lookout just after Cap Rouge it’s where a lot of the Cabot trail pictures are taken from. Oh what a view.

As you continue to twist and turn while climbing you will reach the top of the French Mountain at 455 m (1493 ft). Watch for loose gravel and rocks as the road narrows up the mountains.

Watch for moose early morning and near dusk. We have seen plenty on the North, Mackenzie and French Mountains. My brother-in-law counted 14 one morning on the way to Cheticamp for golf.

It’s a few miles across the top of the French and you will travel also a few miles across the Mackenzie, @ 372 m (1220 ft) which is connected to the French mountain.

Approximately half way across the top on the right-hand side is Benjies Lake where we once saw two moose swimming across the lake.

On the way down into Pleasant Bay there is three good look-offs, do yourself a favor and take some photos. It’s a steep descent with switchbacks and lots of fun. Oh what a ride, no matter how many times you ride the Cabot trail it’s great!

Take a ride down to the wharf in Pleasant Bay and take in a whale watching tour.

 Pleasant Bay to Big Intervale

A few kilometers outside of Pleasant Bay at the base of the North Mountain is the Lone Shelling, a replica of the stone huts used by the Scottish crofters. The hut’s design protected the crofters against the cold wind from the North Sea while tending their sheep in northern Scotland and the Hebrides.

It’s time to start climbing up the North Mountain to an elevation of 445 m (1460 ft). Watch for moose early morning and near dusk. Lots of turns and twists on this one and steep.
North Mountain Moose Story

 Now if you stop on the last look off (it’s a large left hand turn) you will get a great view of the North Aspy River Valley.

North Mountain Look-off – The Aspy Fault

A fault is a crack or fracture in the earth’s crust. The Aspy Fault runs inland for about 40 kilometres (24 miles). Land masses move and separate along fault lines. By studying them and comparing rock types, geologists can determine what land masses might once have been connected. Cape Breton may have been joined to Africa at one time. The panels show the fault lines in Cape Breton and how the land formed over time. Find out how a hanging valley is formed!

North Mountain Look-off – The Beulach Ban Falls

Watch the waterfalls in the Aspy Valley below you as the river winds its way to the Atlantic. The name “Beulach Ban” is Gaelic, a language spoken by the original Scottish settlers. When you reach the base of the mountain, you can drive to the falls. This is a particularly nice area in the Fall when the foliage changes colour. A small picnic area allows for a tranquil lunch.

On your way down you’ll come upon a long downhill straight stretch and the bottom is a right-hand  ninety degree to the right, then one to the left and you’ll cover two little bridges, at the second a little campground that has toilets on the left,

On the righthand side just after the park is the road into Buelach Ban Falls. The road to the falls is gravel, the shoulders are soft and it’s a good distance into them, but it’s worth it. “Beulach Ban” is Gaelic for “white gorge”. 

After you visit the falls turn right at the stop sign and you’re heading for Cape North

You will climb up a little hill on the straight stretch and just on the other side on the right hand side is a shop called Cranberry Patch, stop by and say hello to Dodie or the owners Dave and Paula. It’s a shop full of interesting stuff. I personally like the fudge.

After a couple of straight stretches and a short hop through the woods you will come upon an awe inspiring panorama view of the ocean and Sunrise Valley with rolling meadows and green valleys bordered on the West by Cape North Mountain and stretching out to Aspy Bay to the Northeast and on a clear day you may see St Paul Island.

Next stop on the Cabot trail is Cape North village the most northerly part of the trail. If you are into local history the Highland Museum is at the top of the hill behind Morrison’s Restaurant (closed). The museum was started by Audie and Ruth Morrison in their store/restaurant decades ago and is worth the time to see.

Now you get to make the decision here if you want to see the site where Cabot landed. The presumed site of John Cabot’s landing in 1497 is often missed. It is not on the Cabot Trail but only a short drive off the trail on the road to Bay St Lawrence and Meat Cove. Cabot Landing Provincial Park has the most beautiful beach that is never crowded with a small picnic park.

If you want to see these great spots then take the road to the left at Morrison’s Restaurant now the road is not great, it has dips and broken sections and the last few miles to Meat Cove is gravel. But despite the condition this road is very busy with motorcyclists all summer long.

Bay St Lawrence has a large harbour and because fishing has slowed so much there are usually a number of boats for photo ops.

Tip

• If you do go down to the wharf and are in for some great Fish & Chips or homemade hamburgers stop at the HUT. It’s a little take out with outdoor tables and super friendly folks.

Bay St Lawrence to Meat Cove

After visiting the Bay and if you want to travel the road to Meat Cove you’ll take a right at the Coop grocery store and follow it through Capstick to the end at Meat Cove. It’s about 7kms (5ms) of gravel. When you get there you’ll know why even the local people go there for a drive.

Cape North to South Harbour

Now if you are not in a hurry visit Dingwall the road will be on the left after going down the hill past the fire hall. Left at the “Y” near the white building (a former gas station).

Dingwall has a small fishing boat harbour and a great public beach. Follow the road all the way to the end if you want to see the sea. You’ll end at the Markland Resort and can turn around there. There is a gravel pull off section that you can use to visit the beach and take some photos.

Tip  Stop at the Celtic Touch great pie, Scottish oatcakes and squares.
Cape North/Dingwall to Neil’s Harbour Dingwall Harbour  Returning to the Y intersection at the trail turn left and cross over the two little bridges and you’ll go down a hill, you are now entering South Harbor on the left hand side there’s a craft shop called Country Crafts stop and get a I rode the Cabot Trail biker pin and say hello to the owner Paulette, it’s a great little shop.

Tip They have handmade knitted sweaters and quilts.

South Harbour to Neil’s Harbour Smelt Brook & White Point

After leaving south Harbour and crossing a little bridge at Effie’s Brook turn left at the T intersection

If you are interested in seeing the outpost villages and beautiful scenery you should go through Smelt Brook White Point New Haven and Neil’s Harbour. Now the back route is a little rough, okay in spots more than a little rough but it is well worth the effort. This road basically follows the coastline all the way, take your time and enjoy

The road this way has numerous dips and broken sections and should be done at a leisurely pace.

If you go to Neil’s Harbour via the Cabot Trail you will climb up the south mountain and spend most of the trip looking at trees. There’s not much on this section until Neil’s Harbour. That’s why we put up with the rough road around the coast.

After White Point turn left at the stop sign and go at a slower pace the road sucks along this section until inside of New Haven. After the short cruise past the wharf and harbour at New Haven you will roll into Neil’s Harbour a small fishing village as pretty as Peggy’s cove.In Both villages there are local artists that make small lighthouse, lobster traps and other handmade gifts, so check them out. I’m sure you will enjoy your chat with them.

Go down the road to the lighthouse, it’s a great place for a photo and view of the boats in the harbour.  Also on the left hand side before you get back to the Cabot trail there is a beautiful beach. If you miss it you will find the steps down near the little pull off near the Sea Breeze takeout.

Tip

• Make sure to go down into White Point you’ll be glad you did. I ride right down onto the pier and stop for photos and there is plenty of room to turn around. Maybe you’ll find a local fisherman to talk to while you are there.

 

Neil’s Harbour to Ingonish Center

Leaving Neil’s Harbour turn left at the stop sign, cross the little bridge, past the hospital on the right and start climbing the hill at the next little brook.

You will soon come upon Black Brook beach on your left it’s a very popular beach. I’m not sure why it is so busy, there are so many better beaches but due to its location being so close to Neil’s Harbour and Ingonish as well as the campgrounds it seems to draw many.A view of Ingonish Island.

After a few large sweeping turns you will come upon two great look offs on the left. You may see whales and ships on a clear day.

The exit of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the home of the Highlands Links one of Canada’s premier golf courses at the Keltic Lodge are found in this section of the trail.

I would suggest you take the short ride out to the Keltic Lodge, the grounds are immaculately kept and the view is to be seen.

Now I personally do not care for the restaurants at the Lodge. They have fairly high prices and I would rather support the local businesses that employ the locals, where the Keltic lodge hires employees from mostly everywhere else.  This section of Nova Scotia has unemployment rates of almost 50% partially due to hiring from abroad vs local.

By the way, when I hear someone has eaten there I ask “how was it?” they say “well it was okay, but it wasn’t worth the money”.
Ingonish Beach to Ingonish Ferry

The different sections of Ingonish are divided by an information center in the middle of the road with washrooms just before the Park ticket booth.  There is plenty of parking on the left and a small lot on right.

Ingonish Restaurants

We like two restaurants in particular the first being the Seagull. Located beside the Canadian Legion  and across from Rona. Good food at good prices. Patio dining overlooking the ocean and great staff. Lobster Rolls and Fried haddock are favorites with Pie for desert.

The second is Main Street located across from the Liquor Store. More upscale than the Seagull with higher prices but really good food. Baked goods are also available for take home dining. Great Pie!

Seagull Restaurant Cabot Trail Ingonish, NS, B0C 1K0 Phone: (902)285-2851

Main Street Restaurant and Bakery Inc. 37764 Cabot Trail, Ingonish Beach, NS, Canada B0C1L0 Phone:(902) 285-2225

 

Ingonish Ferry to Cape Smokey

As you enter Ingonish ferry you will start to go around the harbour and climb the rugged cliff sides at the base of Cape Smokey there is plenty of turns and a great view of the harbour.

The best riding is about to begin, quick tight turns up a steep 370m (1200 ft) climb to the top of Cape Smokey and about the same all the way down the other side to the hair pin at the bottom.

Make sure to stop at the top of Cape Smokey for a photo at the lookout of Cape Smokey Provincial Park.

After you pass through the hairpin you will run uphill on a straight stretch before reaching the coast where there is a right hand turn that has a pull- off that gives the opportunity for a photo looking up Cape Smokey

 

Cape Smokey to Wreck Cove

The road after Cape Smoky was recently paved and to Wreck Cove the road is really good with plenty of twists and turns and the occasional view of the sea.
Wreck Cove to Indian Brook

They are recently paved the trail from Wreck Cove to Ski Dhu. The remainder of the road is not great.

If we find ourselves behind a line of traffic we use the straight stretches on this part of the trail to pass as many as possible. After this section there are few legal passing sections

Indian Brook to Englishtown

This section has plenty of turns and small hills but the road is scheduled to be paved due to its poor condition.

On Sunday evenings or holiday Mondays going south the ferry at Englishtown gets backed up and it can be quite a wait, so we go around the St Ann’s way.

The route around St Ann’s Bay is about 12 km and 14 minutes longer and the road is not great until you near the Gaelic College and after that its new pavement.

If you want to shave some time off then take the ferry route it will cost you $5.00 and some time waiting.

When you get off the ferry on the other end turn right at the stop sign and just up the road is The Giant Macaskill Museum. It’s cheap and somewhat interesting.

When you reach the T intersection at the Trans Canada Highway you turn left for Sydney or right for the Causeway.